French Health Authorities Sound Alarm Over Glyoxylic Acid in Hair Straighteners
Warning against Glyoxylic Acid
On January 23, officials in France renewed their warnings against hair straightening products containing glyoxylic acid, drawing attention to a serious risk linked to acute renal failure. With increasing evidence underscoring these dangers, a regulatory organization is pressing French authorities to collaborate with the European Union to explore restrictions or a complete ban on this ingredient in cosmetic formulations.
The French Agency for Food, Environmental, and Occupational Health Safety, known as ANSES, has ramped up its examination of glyoxylic acid in hair straightening applications. Last October, the agency took the precautionary step of recommending that consumers and salons avoid these products entirely, urging retailers to halt their sales. This decision came amid reports of severe adverse effects experienced by women undergoing hair straightening treatments.
Health Risks and Regulatory Actions
In a statement released on January 21, ANSES concluded that it is “highly probable” that glyoxylic acid contributes to cases of acute renal failure. The agency elaborated that the chemical can penetrate the scalp and convert into calcium oxalate crystals within the bloodstream, potentially leading to kidney injury.
Consequently, ANSES is advocating for a comprehensive risk assessment at the European level to consider limiting or even banning glyoxylic acid, especially since it can be present in hair care products in concentrations of up to 25%. Furthermore, the agency is calling for the assessment of alternative products that might decompose into glyoxylic acid or release formaldehyde—a known carcinogen—as a result of heating conditions during hair treatments.
International Responses and Manufacturer Recommendations
In response to the French authorities’ findings, the European Commission plans to seek input from its Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), the designated body responsible for determining the necessity of regulatory actions regarding substances in cosmetic products across Europe.
To date, glyoxylic acid has not been evaluated at the EU level, which means its use remains unregulated. In stark contrast, Israel implemented a ban on hair straighteners containing glyoxylic acid back in 2022—noting that derivatives of the acid could still be used. Between 2019 and 2022, 26 severe renal failure cases associated with glyoxylic acid were documented in Israel.
Although ANSES did not specify particular brands to avoid, the agency strongly recommended that manufacturers reassess the safety profiles of their glyoxylic acid products and determine whether existing application guidelines are sufficient to protect consumers.
Beyond its role in hair care, glyoxylic acid is also found in various cleaning products and tanning solutions due to its corrosion-inhibiting qualities.
Source: Premiumbeautynews